One of the toughest dog training problems to solve is anxiety. As a trainer, I can’t sit down and discuss a dog’s anxiety with it—for anxious dogs, both owners and trainers have to tune in for clues to discover what’s really going on.
Anxious dogs may exhibit such symptoms as barking, howling, heavy panting, pacing, trembling or hiding. Severe cases can also exhibit obsessive licking to the point that it causes hot spots and destructive behavior like eating walls, tearing up furniture, etc. The reason a dog becomes destructive is because it has pent-up anxiety it needs to release and that is usually in a destructive way.
There are three main types of anxiety: separation, noise and social. When dealing with anxiety, you need to know which type of anxiety you are dealing with, if any at all. Sometimes a lack of training, exercise or mental stimulation can sometimes make a bored dog look like they going through separation anxiety. The biggest problem in dealing with this behavior is that dogs do not understand how to be different unless they experience a different way of being in the same situation. That means we need to create the positive experience and we can do that with medications or essential oils and supplements.
Separation Anxiety
If your dog gets anxious when you leave, your dog should be put in a crate or a small area to stay while you’re gone. Exercising the dog before you leave will help, and giving your dog a special treat in its crate or room—something of high value, like a frozen raw bone—will help keep its mind focused elsewhere.
You should also practice putting your dog in its crate or room when you are home; this will help get the dog comfortable with the situation, you periodically looking in on the dog but ignoring any barking or whining. Reinforce the quiet behavior with a reward.
Dogs with bad anxiety may need the help of medications or essentials oils and supplements. I’ve seen good results with acepromazine, a tranquilizer that has been used for years for traveling. Frequently, the dog starts on the highest dose and transitions to zero doses over a month or so, depending on how long it takes to condition the behavior.
Noise and Social Anxiety
For both noise and social anxiety, I will use a calm, well-balanced dog to help the anxious dog. The balanced dog can help relax and set the example for the anxious dog. If your dog is fearful of people, places, noises or dogs, the dog should be introduced to what the fears are in small doses to desensitize to whatever is causing the fear.
When you are dealing with noises, you want to start desensitizing the dog to noises at very low level (remember, your dog has better hearing than you) while playing or engaging in something the dog enjoys.
If your dog is super-sensitive to noise, you will need the help of a supplement or medication.
In social situations, you can also help desensitize your dog in small doses. For example, if a dog is fearful of people, it is important to tell people to ignore the dog, and if the dog approaches to smell the person, they should not look at, talk to, or touch or the dog. The dog needs to feel the freedom to investigate a person without the pressure of interaction—this will help the dog to trust.
If you are working on fear of dogs, then your dog should only be introduced to calm dogs who aren’t that interested in getting to know your dog. Again, the dog needs to learn to trust dogs, and if you introduce your fearful pup to an excited young dog that is trying to play, that will reinforce its fear of dogs.
Difficult cases of anxiety need the help of essential oils, supplements, or even medication.
In order to help your dog, you, your vet and your trainer may need to work together to get the right combination to help your dog. Consistency with love and understanding are the keys to success.
This article appeared in the Summer 2016 issue, page 15.
Are you getting away for the day or possibly an overnight trip? Who will watch your pets while you are away? Summer boarding and daycare services fill up quickly during the summer months. Make your reservations as soon as you know your schedule.
Choosing between overnight boarding and in-home pet sitting depends upon your personal preferences and the personalities of you furry friends, but whichever solution you choose, prescreen the facility or pet sitter prior to your vacation. If possible, schedule a short daycare session to familiarize your pet with the pet care business. Many facilities and in-home providers require a meet and greet to check for compatibility. For pets with special needs, confirm that the care provider is able to accommodate your pet’s medical needs.
A short checklist to consider:
– Will the schedule match what your pet is used to – walks, feeding, potty breaks?
– How much play time or visitation time will your pet get? How frequently does someone check on your pet to determine your pet’s well-being?
– How are emergencies handled?
– How will your pet be cared for in case of a power outage?
– Are daily reports available?
– Check references.
This article appeared in the Summer 2016 issue, page 31.
Brushing your pet not only eliminates loose fur and keeps mats from forming, it also gives you an opportunity to check your pet for parasites (fleas, ticks and mites), and bond with your furry companion.
Active dogs generally spend more time outdoors and you may not hear that telltale tap-tapping reminding you to trim their nails. Long nails are uncomfortable for pets’ toes. Can’t trim them yourself? It’s time to visit the groomer.
Chlorine and salt water pools may irritate a pet’s skin and dry out its fur. A quick rinse after pool water exposure washes off the pool chemicals. Also, rinsing a pet will keep them from licking (and ingesting) the chemicals.
By Robert Reed DVM, MSES, MPA
VCA Rancho Mirage Animal Hospital
I suppose beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but for most of us, ticks are not the most lovable creatures on earth. They crawl around on our dogs’ bodies (and our own); they dig into their skin and feed on their blood, sometimes swelling to grotesque proportions. And, perhaps most disturbingly, they transmit diseases. These characteristics put them right up there with leeches and mosquitoes in the category of things we don’t want touching us.
Yet, although it is with grudging admiration, I have to acknowledge that they are pretty successful at what they do. The world has over 850 species of ticks. Mammals, birds, reptiles, even amphibians can be targets of their malice, and usually more than one animal is impacted by a single tick during its lifetime. Their ability to parasitize multiple animals is part of a complex and fascinating life cycle that is worth understanding, as it explains a lot about how and where dogs (and other animals) come into contact with ticks, as well as what the consequences of that contact might be.
The Life Cycle of Ticks
The enlarged photo above shows a close-up of a tick from larvae to adult. Photo courtesy: The California Department of Public Health
Most ticks (including all the ones in our area) go through four life stages:
Stage 1: Eggs
After mating a female tick will lay thousands of eggs on the ground, where they hatch after anywhere from a few weeks to a few months, depending on environmental conditions, to become…
Stage 2: Larvae
Larvae are sometimes referred to as “seed ticks”. They are very small, like the head of a pin, and may be difficult to see. Like all subsequent stages, larvae have to find a blood source to feed on before they can move to the next stage. They accomplish this feat by moving as high as they can onto vegetation or plant debris, extending their legs, and waiting for an animal to brush by, so they can grab on to it. The process is called “questing”, and during questing, ticks may respond to several environmental cues, such as light, shadow, color, carbon dioxide levels, and maybe even smells to help them find the ideal location to reach out and touch someone.
Because larvae are so small, they usually don’t make it very far from the ground, so their host (host number 1) is typically something small, like a mouse or a lizard. After attaching to the host and feeding for a few days, larvae drop to the ground, and then after a few weeks molt and develop into…
Stage 3: Nymphs
Nymphs look like smaller versions of adult ticks. Like larvae, they have to feed on blood before they can really accomplish anything, so they must repeat the questing process. Since they are bigger than larvae, they tend to climb further from the ground and can usually latch on to slightly larger animals, like rabbits, birds, or raccoons, although nymphs can certainly end up on dogs, or even people. Again, after feeding for several days, nymphs drop off their host (host number 2) and, following a few weeks to a few months on the ground, molt and become…
Stage 4: Adults
Adults are the version we usually envision when we think of ticks. They are the only ones capable of reproducing and the ones (primarily the females) that become noticeably engorged during feeding. Adult ticks go through the same questing process, but generally from an even higher position, usually tall grass or low shrubs, to reach larger animals, like deer, dogs and humans. After finding a host (host number 3) the adults may wander around for a while looking for the ideal location to attach. This is the time we sometimes spot them on dogs. Once they become attached they are a little harder to see, and their saliva acts as an anesthetic, so the host is unaware of their presence. If left undisturbed they may stay attached for up to two weeks, and it may be a little disconcerting to know that they breed while on the host, but only after they have fed. After breeding, the male dies, the female drops to the ground, deposits her eggs, and also dies, completing the cycle.
Because ticks in each stage can survive months on the ground without feeding, the length of the total process can be hard to predict, but it would take a minimum of two months, and maybe as much as three years. However, since environmental factors, like temperature, humidity, and rainfall can influence tick development, we see a strong seasonality in the number of ticks reaching the point of questing, which correlates directly with the risk of tick exposure to our dogs. In our area we tend to see the greatest tick activity in April, May and June, then again in October and November. It seems sensible, therefore, that during those months dog owners should be especially vigilant and remember to check carefully for ticks anytime a dog has visited an area with low vegetation or plant litter on the ground. An area frequently visited can be checked for ticks by brushing a rough, light-colored cloth over the vegetation to see if it picks up any hitchhikers.
In addition to helping us predict tick population variances, knowing the life cycle also allows us to see why ticks are so effective at transmitting diseases. Each host has the potential to pass an infection through the blood to any stage tick, which is subsequently carried to the next host and transmitted from the tick in its saliva. At least one disease organism is even known to pass through the eggs from one generation of ticks to the next. The Table presented illustrates some possible disease risks from ticks found in our area.
Local Tick Species
As alarming as this information may seem, it could be worse. We are lucky that the environment of the Coachella Valley doesn’t favor a lot of ticks. As far as we know, there are only three species we might encounter here.
The Western Black-Legged Tick (Ixodes pacificus) is not known to inhabit the lower elevations of the Valley, but is present in the San Bernardino and San Jacinto Mountains around us. These ticks are known carriers of Lyme disease and Anaplasmosis, but fortunately, no ticks in our area have ever tested positive for either disease.
The American Dog Tick (Dermacentor variabilis) is not native to the Desert, but apparently in some specific, localized areas where moisture, vegetation, and wildlife conditions are just right, it is able to survive. This is the tick a dog in the lower Valley is most likely to encounter outdoors, but only if it stumbles upon one of those isolated pockets. This species has the potential to carry Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF) and Tularemia, but neither disease has been confirmed in ticks from our area.
The Brown Dog Tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus) can be found anywhere dogs live. Its life cycle is very closely associated with dogs, and while it may feed on other mammals, dogs are the preferred host for every stage in its life. Most of the time each host is a different dog with the tick dropping off between stages, so the potential for disease transmission between dogs is high. It can also transmit RMSF, as well as Ehrlichiosis and Babesiosis. None of these diseases has been associated with ticks from the Coachella Valley, but the agents of both Babesiosis and RMSF have been reported in ticks from other California desert areas.
Unlike the other two species, this tick does not survive well in outdoor environments, but is extremely successful in indoor environments, such as kennels, where dogs are regularly housed. All of its life stages thrive in crevices and wall spaces of buildings. It is the only species likely to infest a home, and although brown dog ticks always prefer dogs, they will readily attach to people in such situations.
Summary
While there is not much to love about ticks, they are formidable adversaries and worthy of our respect. But the danger they present is manageable for dog owners who understand them, know how to avoid them, and who exercise common sense, a little caution, and some communication with their veterinarian. There are some great new products available that make tick prevention easier than it has ever been before. They can’t make ticks any less disgusting, but they make sharing the world with them a little less challenging.
Article appears in the Summer 2016 issue, page 48. Read article for additional information and photos.
VCA Rancho Mirage Animal Hospital located at 71-075 Highway 111, Rancho Mirage, CA. 760-346-6103. Visit www.vcahospitals.com/rancho-mirage
Grief is not an emotion that is often ascribed to cats. However, after the loss of a companion cat or dog, behaviors may be noted that indicate mourning in your cat. This is especially possible if there was only one other companion in the household.
Behaviors that may be noted are vocalization (the most common), insistent rubbing on persons or objects, neediness, hiding, lethargy and/or decreased appetite. One, several or none of these signs may be present with your cat.
If you note the presence of any of these behaviors, we recommend you have your kitty examined by your veterinarian to be sure there is no illness. When one pet in the household has been severely ill, a more subtle illness in another pet may be overlooked. This is especially the case with conditions such as high blood pressure, which can cause some of these behaviors while often having no other obvious indications that a disease is present in your pet.
If the check-up shows kitty is otherwise healthy, then grieving may explain the behavior. If so, how might your veterinarian help? We will explain different steps that can be taken at home to potentially decrease the grieving. One possibility is the use of a Feliway diffuser, which release a scent. The scent is a pheromone that decreases stress and may decrease grieving. It comes as spray or wipes as well as in the diffuser form. These products are available on line or can be ordered from your veterinarian. Another idea is to leave your TV or radio on when not at home, as the sound of voices might provide a sense of companionship.
You should also schedule more play time and lap/petting time. Play (i.e., exercise) is good for kitty’s mood, and the extra lap/petting times can make kitty feel more in touch and secure. Be careful to actually schedule time, rather than responding to crying, to avoid finding that kitty has trained you to respond to the cries. Lastly, although this is somewhat controversial, sometimes a new pet in the household may help. However, your kitty had a bond to the original companion and may not feel comforted with a new one. This is especially true of older pets.
If none of these changes at home relieve your cat’s sadness, speak to your veterinarian. In particular, do not allow kitty to skip meals, which can lead to severe liver disease. Your veterinarian can provide prescription stress relief which may include herbs, antidepressants or appetite stimulants, as deemed appropriate.
All in all, there is no reliable way to predict how long your kitty might grieve or which of the remedies will work, but you should be prepared to respond to your cat’s grief along with your own. We hope this information will help you with the difficult process.
This article appears in Summer 2016, page 18.
Rebecca Diaz, DVM is the owner of The Cat Clinic, a feline-only veterinary clinic located at 67870 Vista Chino, Cathedral City, CA, www.catcitycat.com, 760-325-3400
Clinical signs can range anywhere from head shaking and ear scratching to excess debris and a foul odor.
Yes, they are aggravating… yes, they can be painful… and yes, they can be expensive. But with a little knowledge and a little effort, these stubborn infections can be resolved. Follow along on the first of a three-part series to learn more about your pet and what you can do.
Otitis externa (ear infection) is one of the most common medical conditions presented to our hospital. Clinical signs can range anywhere from head shaking and ear scratching to excess debris and a foul odor. Where do they come from? Ear infections are usually an opportunistic infection. They are laying silent, just waiting… waiting for the right conditions to develop. Yeast and bacteria are normal inhabitants of the ear canal in our pets. That’s the bad news. The good news is the canine and feline ear is extremely efficient in keeping these infectious agents in check. When the ear environment changes, their numbers can escalate to harmful levels. Therefore, it must be recognized that most ear infections, not all, are NOT contagious. They do not come from the backyard, the pool water, or the dog park! They’re already there. What triggers these agents to proliferate? The list is long, but most infections, nearly 75 to 80%, are caused by a single Common condition. What is the culprit? What starts the ball rolling? It’s everywhere. It’s all around us. It is very simple. It’s ALLERGIES! The inflammation created down the ear canal by a wide array of everyday allergens is the driving force behind the majority of otitis cases. Other primary causes include parasites, foreign bodies, hormonal imbalances of hypothyroidism and Cushing’s disease, as well as a host of skin conditions, including seborrhea and autoimmune diseases.
Dry the ears with bathroom tissues between your weekly treatments or whenever you suspect water in the ear canal
Seem Hopeless?
Not really. Here’s what you can do. Keep ears clean and dry. For those ‘water doggies’ that can’t stay away from the beach, the pool, or the nearest sprinkler head—dry the ears routinely. Use a veterinary-approved cleaner/ drying agent in the form of a liquid medication to apply weekly. Dry the ears with bathroom tissues between your weekly treatments or whenever you suspect water in the ear canal. Removing hair from the ear opening helps prevent problems in those breeds with excessive ear hair. Most importantly, removing wax and debris buildup from the canal aids in the ears’ natural self-cleaning mechanism. Use a good ear cleanser formulated to break up wax and lipids that are commonly found with infection. Apply the cleanser liberally down the ear canal, massage it to break up the debris, and then clean out the canal as deep as possible. Remember the pet ear, unlike the human ear canal, takes a 90 degree bend, precluding any chance of damaging the deeper structures of the ear. Avoid Q-tips. In the next issue we will focus more specifically on the ‘how to’ of ear treatment and give you some helpful hints for even the most reluctant patient. Don’t be discouraged. Even if you follow all the right steps, some infections are destined to occur. Call your veterinarian. Don’t delay. Most cases of otitis externa will not resolve on their own. Resolution comes with early treatment before permanent ear Changes can occur.
Vet Exam
The veterinary visit usually consists of a four stage process in order to achieve the best chance of success.
1 The exam starts by obtaining a good history. First-time occurrence? Pet having frequent flare ups? Are flare ups seasonal? Any signs of other skin diseases? Any signs of food allergies? Hormonal symptoms? Water exposure? Breed predilection for otitis? Any odor from ears? Character of discharge or debris from ear? Seems like a lot of questions, but all help your veterinarian put the pieces of the puzzle together for the best possible outcome.
2 Diagnostics. Analysis of a sample of debris from the deeper part of the ear canal has now become the standard of care. The information gathered from this swab/cytology will guide your vet in the course of treatment and proper selection of medication. Not all ear infections are created equal. Each infection is likely an entirely different type of infection with an entirely different set of problems and treatment. Don’t fall prey to the thinking that ‘what worked last time will work this time.’
3 Thorough ear cleaning under sedation. The sedative ear flush is the single most important component of treating otitis externa. It separates success from failure and gives your Pet the quickest path to eliminate pain and infection. Sedatives are safe and effective and allow your vet to clean the deeper structures of the ear canal without undue discomfort. Special instruments are passed down the ear canal through an ear scope to clean the areas of the ear you cannot reach. Long-term success will only come with a clean ear.
4 Selection of appropriate medication. The final step in ear treatment is using the proper ear product for your pet’s specific infection. In my experience, this is one of the most common areas that lead to failure. Medications come in 3 categories—cleansers, antibacterials and antifungals (yeast). Most treatment plans include the combination of cleansers and antibacterials or cleansers and antifungals. Both combinations work together synergistically to achieve what they cannot achieve alone. Product selection is dic-tated by the previous findings at the sedative ear flush and the ear cytology. The specific “how to” of home ear treatment will be covered in next month’s issue, but usually involves a two-stage process of applying a cleanser followed by an antimicrobial. Remember, otitis externa is not a quick fix, but with some help and guidance from your veterinary team, most occurrences can be knocked out in 7 to 14 days.
Village Park Animal Hospital is located at 51-230 Eisenhower Dr. in La Quinta. Village Park Animal Hospital also offers grooming services for dogs and cats. (760) 564-9364www.villageparkanimalhospital.com
So you and your friends are gathered in the living room, enjoying snacks and having a few beers, watching the big game. Suddenly, your eyes begin to water and the sense of something worse than a ruptured sewer, burning plastic, a dead rat stuck between walls and 10 angry skunks, combined, wafts into your nostrils. You have an urge to open all the doors and windows, but you can’t, because it’s 110 degrees outside. You look up, and all eyes are on you! You immediately cry out, “Don’t look at me! The dog did it!!”
In your own defense, you point to the poor creature next to you, who’s looking up at you with big eyes, apologizing, as he always does, for whatever has sent you into such a state. He doesn’t realize he has a problem, but as your friends make a hasty, “religious” retreat, uttering phrases starting with “Holy” and “Jesus,” you begin to wonder how your beloved friend became such a fumarole of noxious gases. What process is going on inside him that creates this? Is he sick?
Then you say, “It’s just flatulence,” but why does it smell so bad? After all, flatulence is a normal biological function. It’s only the result of an accumulation of gas in the intestinal tract. What, exactly, is the origin of canine gas, and what can you do about it? Well, here are the basics.
For the most part, flatulence in dogs develops in two fundamental ways: Aerophagia (swallowing air) and Fermentation.
Dog owners are usually not surprised to hear that dogs can swallow a lot of air when they eat, especially those who gulp their food. Feeding multiple dogs in the same area can exacerbate the situation by introducing competition. So, you may be able to reduce ingestion of air by feeding dogs separately or by feeding smaller, more frequent meals. Some dog bowls are even designed with barriers built in to force dogs to slow down, and they can be very effective.
Another cause for aerophagia is gasping. Many short-nosed dogs frequently breathe through their mouths. Exertion, obviously, compounds the problem. These dogs are often “gassy” and, if they are also enthusiastic eaters, they can be fountains of flatulence. (Bulldog owners seem to have an inherent understanding of this.) Ingested air, however, doesn’t automatically carry foul odors. Sure, it can pick up some aroma as it passes through the digestive tract, but the really noxious stuff is produced on-site, within the digestive tract, through fermentation.
Fermentation is a metabolic process used by microorganisms to create energy through the breakdown of organic compounds, like carbohydrates, into acids, alcohols, and gases. The types of gases, and hence, the odors produced are influenced by the organisms present and the type of organic compound being acted upon. In dogs, most fermentation occurs in the colon (lower intestine), which receives material that should have already been broken down by enzyme activity in the upper intestine. Food products that resist degradation in the upper intestine make it to the colon more intact and end up being processed through fermentation, leading to the accumulation of those gases we don’t want crashing our parties. For dogs, these foods include things like milk, cheese, soy, peas, beans, fruit (fresh or dried), bran, and other sources of fiber.
Of course, anything that reduces digestion in the small intestine can contribute to the problem. Pancreatic enzyme reduction, intestinal thickening that reduces absorption, inflammation from dietary indiscretion or toxin exposure, increased motility from stress, and bacterial population shifts from sudden dietary changes are all examples of situations that can impact fermentation and the types and volume of gas produced. Predictably, diarrhea often comes with the package.
So, it’s important to remember that while flatulence alone is typically benign, even humorous at times, you should discuss it with your vet. They may suggest some supplements or therapies to help. Remember, also, that gas associated with flatulence is moving through the digestive tract, and is unlikely to cause discomfort or danger. Gas that is trapped in the digestive tract can be very uncomfortable, and may be a sign of a deeper problem, like gastric torsion, intestinal obstruction, or reduced motility, none of which should be taken lightly. Here’s a list of symptoms that might signal that your dog’s gut problems are more than just flatulence.
Bloated appearance
Trouble getting comfortable
Vomiting
Loss of appetite
Weight loss
Diarrhea
Chronic constipation
Blood or mucus in the stool
Thankfully, most flatulence problems are social, rather than medical, and can be managed by staying proactive in how your dog is fed, what he is fed, and how fast he eats it. So the next time your friends come over for a party, don’t let the little guy next to you get into the cheese dip, and don’t offer him hot dogs or hamburgers. But remember, if you follow this advice, when the next odor appears, you’ll either have to accept the blame or lay it on one of your friends, because the dog didn’t do it!
Slow feeders make getting to the food a little challenging by limiting the access to the kibble. Dogs (and cats) need to work a bit harder to get every last piece. This is also a great tool to mentally stimulate pets at feeding time. There are many styles of slow feeders, as shown here. Products shown are not necessarily endorsed by author.
Since we live in an active earthquake zone, as well as face potential flooding from El Nino, it is good to include your pet as a part of your family’s emergency preparedness plan.
Identification
It is important to have your pet properly identified. Your veterinarian can implant an identification microchip and get it registered with a national microchip company. Keep a collar and identification tag on your pet at all times, even if it lives primarily in the house. Be sure your current cell phone number is on the tag.
Pet Disaster Kit
Make a pet disaster kit. A storage bin with handles can be grabbed in case of emergency. The disaster kit should include any pet medications, the phone number of your veterinarian and the local emergency clinic, vaccination history, photos of your pet (in case it gets lost), feeding bowls, and several days’ worth of food and water. Canned food can last longer than dry food, so don’t forget a can opener. If you have a cat, include a litter box and litter.
Pet First Aid Kit
There are pet first aid kits available in pet stores, or there are numerous websites on how to make your own and include one in your storage bin. Some basic items are adsorbent gauze pads, adhesive tape, antiseptic wipes or spray, scissors with blunt ends, tweezers, and sterile saline solution to wash wounds. If your pet gets carsick, or is prone to diarrhea under stress, you may want some additional prescription medications on hand.
Transporting your Pet
A good transport crate for your pet can help you evacuate in an orderly manner. All cats and small dogs should be in a crate. Also, have a leash and harness handy and car safety harnesses to keep larger pets secure during the ride to a disaster shelter.
Pet-Friendly Lodging
Try to determine in advance what hotels and other accommodations are pet-friendly. You can call your local office of emergency management to find out if pets will be accepted in shelters.
And, check with friends or relatives to see if they would be willing to host your entire family if you cannot stay in your home.
Disaster Warning
If there is a warning of a pending disaster, bring your pets indoors and close off areas where a frightened cat or dog may try to hide. Block off areas with toxic products as well as any vents or an open fireplace. You don’t want to spend valuable time searching for your pet if you are ordered to evacuate.
When Disaster Strikes
In the midst of a disaster, do not leave your pet behind. If it is not safe for you, it is not safe for them—and you have no way of knowing how long you will be evacuated. People trying to get back into damaged buildings to rescue their furry family members have hampered emergency workers during a disaster.
If you are fully prepared, handling a disaster will go more smoothly for both you and your pet. You can obtain further information on pet disaster preparedness at www.ready.govor call (800) BE READY.
What if you are away from your pet when a disaster strikes?
Do you have a back-up plan for your pet’s care if an emergency happens and your pet isn’t with you? Make arrangements ahead of time for a friend/neighbor, family member or pet sitter who lives nearby to care for your pet in case of an emergency. Let them know where the Pet Disaster Kit and crate are stored so they can quickly grab the supplies, along with your pet.
